The Edgware Road, in two alphabets
The western side of the Edgware Road, above Marble Arch, is W2, and for decades it has been London's Arab high street. Lebanese kitchens, bakeries stacking flatbread in the window, juice counters, shop signs in Arabic beside the English. Dinner here is a table of small dishes arriving all at once, grilled meat to follow, and on a mild night a seat under an awning where the shisha pipes glow along the pavement. It is loud, generous and unhurried, the right choice for a guest who wants appetite more than hush.








